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From the acclaimed, prize-winning author of Honey and Dust: a captivating memoir of a year spent in the holy city of Varanasi'Moore Ede is highly attuned to the sensory experiences which make travel writing come alive' Giles Foden'Brims with warmth, humility and curiosity … The rhythms of life and death by the river are vividly rendered in Moore Ede’s fluid prose' Times Literary SupplementPiers Moore Ede first fell in love with Varanasi when he passed through it on his way to Nepal. In the decade that followed, it continued to exert its pull on him and so he returned there to live – to discoverwhat it is that makes the spiritual capital of India so unique.In this intoxicating city, where funeral pyres smoulder beside the river in which thousands of pilgrims bathe, and holiness and corruption walk side by side, Piers discovers a remarkable interplay between death and life, light and dark.