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RISING MAGNIFICENTLY in the wilderness of Western Tibet, Mount Kailash is one of three sacred mountains in Tibet. Its shape is unmistakable: a symmetrical cone marked with striations and graced with perpetual snows. Four rivers emanate from it, nourishing the entire region. Mount Kailash is the center of the spiritual universe. It is sacred to four religions: Buddhism, Hinduism, Bon, and Jainism. For Hindus, it is the home of Shiva. All of these statements are true of this magnifi cent mountain, but the truest is what my teacher said to me before I left to do prostrations around Mt. Kailash: ';The center of the spiritual universe already exists in your human heart. Meet your mirror.'